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Costa Rica

September, 2007

 

     After about two weeks of planning, we were finally on our way to Costa Rica.  We decided on a 10 day trip and tried to hit as many hot spots as we couldBorder from Panama to Costa Rica.  On September 26th, our trip began with a 7 am water taxi to Changuinola, taxi cab to Panama/Costa Rica border, nice stroll across a rather old railroad bridge to the Costa Rican border where we checked in with immigration and then took a public bus to Puerto Viejo (Costa Rica), a nice low key town that hasn't lost its Caribbean charm.  We arrived late afternoon, found our hotel and then decided to find another hotel and finally settled at Apartmentos Agapi.  We Our hotel in Puerto Viejo, Agapi rested and waited for the sun to abate then rented a couple of bikes to ride around town.  We had cocktails and hors d'oeurves on the beach and watched a beautiful sunset. We then had a good sushi dinner at Lotus Garden.  It was an early night, because the next day we had scheduled a full day of white water rafting on the Rio Pacuare, a class III-IV river.

    Exploradores (our tour guides) picked us up promptly at 6:20 am from our hotel (Agapi).  The bus was comfortable, air conditioned and very clean.  We had a few stops along the way to pick up other people and then began our river rafting tour.  We had a filling breakfast at the Exploradores Center, a short drive to the descent area, rafted for about two hours, stopped at the "In Route" Exploradores Center for an excellent lunch setup by the guides, continued our rafting adventures until we reached the Exploradores Center (our original starting point).  We showered, had a quick snack, and bought the picture CD (well worth the money).   We thoroughly enjoyed the thrill and adventure of this trip.  The rafting was excellent, our guide (Henry “Ninja”) was fun, knowledgeable and professional.  The rapids were strong enough to cause one of the three rafts to overturn, however, no one was seriously hurt. Guides in kayaks accompanied the rafts to recover any bodies of people who had fallen in the water.   It was an excellent beginning to our Costa Rican adventure.

Upon our arrival, we had breakfast at the Exploradores facilities pictured here    Exploradores equipment

Rankin and I at the beginning of our river rafting trip ... no one has fallen out of the boat yet!    Our guide Henry aka Ninja    Now the action begins

River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare

River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare

One of the three rescue kayakers    Lunch break at a local indian hut ... here the children play by the rafts    A very good buffet lunch was prepared for us by the guides.

A little shy indian girl played nearby while we had lunch at their hut    A quick lunch and we were back on the river    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare

River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare

River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare    River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare

River Rafting on the Rio Pacuare        Rankin and I near the end of our river rafting on the Rio Pacuare

    Our rafting trip ended around 3:30 pm and now we had a three and a half hour van ride to our next destination Arenal.  During our trip, we had one rest stop break at a local restaurant called Restaurante de Veintidos.  We were expecting a quick cup of coffee and restroom break then back on the road, but we captured pictures of an iguana and a two or three toed sloth (couldn't tell from far away).  The iguana was hanging on a branch minding his own business probably sleeping and the sloth slowly climbed around the iguana to get a good position high in the branches.  We spent most of our break taking pictures.

An iguana taking a nap or just hanging around    A two or three toed sloth needs to by, so he begins climbing around the iguana    The sloth has almost made it ... just a bit further    Success ... the sloth is now past the iguana (who hasn't moved an inch) & has better pickings of leaves

        We piled back into the van and around 7 pm made it to our hotel, Arenal Lodge. We heard Arenal Lodge was very nice and had an excellent view of volcano and lava flow at night.  One of the reasons we wanted to stay at Arenal Lodge was because our friends had gone there the previous year and were able to sit in the outdoor Jacuzzi and watch the lava come down the volcano at night. As we later learned, the path of the lava (really just hot rocks popping out of the volcano, not the molten stuff) changes every ten months or so as rocks build up on the volcano’s rim and divert the lava to different paths. We saw little of the flow during our stay. The closer you get to La Fortuna, the less chance you have of seeing the lava. In fact, La Fortuna got its name because of its good fortune to be spared when the volcano exploded in 1964 and destroyed all the towns in the opposite direction. Our guide told us that the microclimate around that area resulted in clouds over the volcano 90% of the time and there was no predicting the rain regardless of the time of year.  Though we didn't see the lava flow, we enjoyed the tranquility of this lodge.  It is a beautiful and peaceful place located on a hillside.  Our room had two queen size beds, cable TV, coffee pot, couch, large balcony and fantastic view of the Arenal volcano.  The lodge has wonderful landscaping along with a pool and 2 Jacuzzi tubs with great views of the volcano, a butterfly garden and a jungle hiking trail.  They also had bird feeders which allowed us to watch tropical birds a few feet away as we ate breakfast. We booked all our tours through Arenal Lodge.

Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge

Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge    Arenal Lodge

In between tours, we hiked the grounds around Arenal Lodge ... here's the Butterfly Garden    Thousands of beautiful butterflies are housed in this garden    We were fortunate to get a photo of this beauty ... it took loads of photos, but finally a good picture    Rankin hunting again .... this time butterflies

    Our first tour was Arenal Volcano and Tabacón Resort Spa & Hot Springs.  This tour began with a quick 20 minute Our guide Julio ride to the Arenal Volcano.  Our guide was a nice young man named Julio and our driver was Manuel.  At the beginning of our hike, Julio provided us with some history of Arenal Volcano.  Then we began our 1.5 to 2 hour hike mostly downhill while Julio pointed out various birds (e.g. white hawk) and insects.  Our hike ended Rankin and I hiking around Arenal Volcano around 5:30 pm, drinks (water, juice, etc.) were provided and then we hopped back into the van for the short trip to Tabacón Resort & Hot Springs.  Julio provided us with a quick orientation of the spa and off we went.  Dinner wasn’t until 8:30 pm, so we had 2.5 hours to explore the facility.  We changed from hiking clothes to swimsuits and began finding our way around this large facility.  The Tabacón Hot Springs has a very well maintained and natural landscape.  The bottoms of some hot spring pools are covered in small pebbles while others have a combination of small pebbles and large rocks (toe stubbing rocks).  We experienced various hot springs and the temperature ranged from 27°C to 42°C depending on the pool.  It was a bit dark, so finding your way around can be a little tricky.  We needed a break from the hot springs so we found the swimming pool, jumped in and had a cocktail at the “swim up” bar.  After 2.5 hours in the hot springs we were ready for dinner.  It was Italian night and the buffet had a variety of foods including lamb, shrimp, calamari, and mussels, a variety of sauces and not to mention a large selection of deserts and coffee.  This was a fun but rather unexciting tour compared to our other adventures.

    I wasn't going to mention it to Rankin, but there was a canyoning tour available and after reviewing all our tour options, of course, this was one of the tours he chose.  Our canyoning tour was with Desafio Adventure Company and was booked through Arenal Lodge (our hotel).  This tour began at 11:30 am Paul (far left) and the girls ... who thought the gear made their butts look big! with a 20-30 minute drive to the Desafio Adventure office located in La Fortuna.  We transferred to a very comfortable a/c van and then made various stops throughout town picking up other crazy folks like us.  Our group consisted of 12-15 people, all women except for two men (Rankin & Paul) … the guides were also men, young men.  Our guides were Carlos, Estephin, Mike and Lorenzo (driver).  We drove about 30 minutes before transferring to a 4X4 vehicle (the comfortable part was over) where we piled into the back two bench seats.  We continued our journey on a very bumpy and sometimes steep road for 15-20 minutes before we reached our  destination.  We geared up and were given about a 10 minute canyoning lesson ... okay, now we were ready and good to go!!  We began our hike through the rainforest to our first canyoning location beginning at a fairly small 10 foot drop to practice our rappelling skills.  Of course, we were gracious enough to let almost everyone go rappelling down the drop ahead of us.  The rappelling was very quick and we rapidly moved along to each drop anticipating the next.  We actually lost count of how many descents we made, but we believe it was about 3 long descents (over 50 foot drops) and 5 or 6 small descents (5-20 foot drops).  We vividly remember A late lunch after hours of rappelling the highest descent which was about 200 feet next to a beautiful waterfall.  Rappelling down the canyons was an exhilarating experience not to mention hiking through the beautiful rainforest.  After about 2-3 hours of excitement, we had drinks and snacks at a gazebo where our transportation waited.  After resting a bit, we were back in the 4X4 for our return trip.  Of course, we were all soaked from the journey and a bit chilled.  We soon switched from 4X4 to the van and then 20-30 minutes later arrived at our luncheon location.  We changed clothes from bathing suits to shorts/pants.  We enjoyed a wonderful late lunch (around 4 pm) and regaled our rappelling experiences with each other.  We arrived back at Arenal Lodge around 6:30 pm with a full stomach and a bit sleepy.  It was an excellent trip and we considered repeating the experience … more rappelling!!!

Here I am getting geared up to rappel down a 15 foot drop ... wasn't it nice of Rankin to let me go first    Ready to drop down ... no problem    I am up to my knees in water and loving every minute of it

It's Rankin's turn ... he's getting geared up        He's ready ... not even looking back    It was no problem for him just a 15 foot drop

I am about half way down the 200 foot waterfall drop    Wow, made it slowly down the waterfall    It was great ... I am ready to do it again

Rankin's hanging over the platform for the 200 foot drop ...    There he goes rappelling through the trees before he hits the waterfalls    A picture of the waterfalls from below

    Unfortunately, it was time to travel to Monteverde/Santa Elena via our Jeep-Boat-Jeep transportation where more thrilling The boat portion of our Jeep-Boat-Jeep Transportation from Arenal to Monteverde escapades awaited us.  In Monteverde/Santa Elena, there is a small “city central” where you’ll find grocery stores, local bakery, restaurants, internet access, bookstore, tour agencies, ATMs etc.  This is a very scenic area with lots of activities.  We arrived on the afternoon of Sunday, September 30th and checked into our hotel, Arco Iris.  

Our hotel in Monteverde/Santa Elena, Arco Iris LodgeOur first tour in this area was the Twilight Hike at Bosque Eterno de los Niños which was essentially a night hike through the rainforest.  This tour was from 5:30 pm to 7:30 pm and our guide was nice, professional and very knowledge.  It was a nice, easy and pleasant night hike; however, we were a bit disappointed with the lack of wildlife (maybe next time) ... of course, we were hoping to see a jaguar.  We did see a tarantula, mot mot bird, and a few other insects ... no jaguar.

 

Captured this beautiful sunset before our night hike began    Can you see the tarantula    Bugs

Spiders ... where are the jaguars    Mot mot bird sleeps in the rainforest

    The next day we booked our next tour with Selvatura.  This tour began at 10:30 am, included the zip lines and hanging bridges.  We geared up and after a quick orientation  we spent about 2.5 hours zipping through the canopies.  There was a little bit of hiking to get to each platform, but not too tough.  During this tour, we used one hand to break (stop ourselves) by pulling down on the cable.  The guides also had a safety line attached to the cable to slow us down too.  We later talked to a couple on their honeymoon and learned the groom had slammed into a tree on the zip lines and was taken to a hospital since he was a bit wobbly on his feet ... oops.  In between zip lines, we swung like Tarzan on a rope swing … we jumped off a 40 foot platform and swung through the air.  It was great … definitely a “must do”.   After the zip lines, we had lunch at the Selvatura Lodge waiting for rain to pass and then hiked around the 8 hanging bridges.  It gave us the opportunity to slowly view this beautiful primary rainforest.

Here I come zipping through the rainforest    Rankin anxiously waiting his turn    There goes Rankin in a blur zipping through the forest

After our zip line tour we stopped at the Selvatura Lodge for lunch    Lunch at Selvatura Lodge    We waited out the rain at this beautiful lodge

Selvatura Hanging Bridges Tour ... Rankin on one of the many bridges    This huge fern was taken from a hanging bridge about 30 feet above it

    In between the zip lines, we decided to take the El Trapiche Coffee Tour since we both love coffee.  We were pleasantly surprised because this was much more than just a coffee tour.  It also included a demonstration of the cane sugar process and provided information on their other crops like their banana plantation.  We thoroughly enjoyed this tour.  Not only was the guide very knowledgeable, this is a family owned and operated business and we were able to meet the whole family.  It gave this tour a personal feel which we appreciated.  During our tour, the entire coffee processing procedure was demonstrated.  We took a traditional ox cart ride to where the sugar cane was processed.  The traditional sugar cane process with oxen was demonstrated as well as current methods (machine).  We tasted the raw sugar cane and they made us candy out of sugar cane which is enjoyed by many of the local people.  At the end of our tour, we were given coffee and a homemade tortilla snack.

Banana plantation    Sugar plantation    Coffee plantation

Traditional oxen and cart    Machine used to process the sugar cane    They make homemade rum, though Rankin tried, they wouldn't allow us to sample the brew

    We couldn’t get enough of the zip lines, so we went again. This time we booked our canopy ride through Sky Trek Canopy Tours.  We had heard that this zip line was longer and faster, so we decided to take a look see.  Our tour began at 1 pm and ended at 3 pm ... two hours of zipping.  This zip line tour operates a little differently than Selvatura (mentioned above).  Instead of using your gloved hand as a break (like at Selvatura), you have both hands on a bar.  Breaking is done by twisting the bar which causes you to slow down.  We thought this zip line was faster and longer and the day we went was foggy so we disappeared into the clouds as we went down the zip lines.  However, we also thought there was more steep uphill hiking to each platform and some of the rainforest was not old growth like the Selvatura zip line.  It was a great ride and well worth the hike … great fun.

Rankin and I pose before we begin zipping through the rainforest    Rankin is the first one in line to zip across the canopies    There he goes!!!    My turn

    Unfortunately, we were zipping through the canopies and missed the tour times for the Monteverde Cheese Factory which were at 9 am & 2 pm.  We did visit the cheese factory, bought cheese and, of course, ice cream which were great.  We heard this is a good tour, and we’re sorry we missed it. We strolled a couple of miles back to our hotel and enjoyed seeing the sights on the way.  We stopped by small artisan shops, coffee shops, chocolate shop and caught a wonderful sunset. 

We missed the tour but got to view the cheese making process    We like cheese, but we really wanted the ice cream ... both we delicious

We hiked back to our hotel and stop at this artisan shop    We spent at least an hour at this coffee shop speaking with the owner about her products    During our hike back to our hotel, we captured this beautiful sunset 

Our hotel in San Jose, Posada del Museo, quaint but a bit noisy    We spent a short two and half days at Monteverde/Santa Elena and it was magnificent.  We probably should have planned more time here ... maybe next time.  San Jose was our next destination before traveling back to Panama.  On October 3rd, we took a shuttle van for the four hour bumpy trip to San Jose.  We made it in one piece though a little shaken from the trip, and checked into our quant though a bit noisy hotel.  There were many tours available in San Jose, but we only had a day and a half and we were trying to get a few chores out of the way ... like iPod repair (not a successful ending).  We did tour around the bustling city of San Jose and visited the beautiful Teatro Nacional.

Beautiful antique sculptures and paintings lined the foyer    Beautiful antique sculptures and paintings lined the foyer    Contemporary artists were also featured

Upstairs is the ballroom for cocktails and snacks prior to the performance    Teatro Nacional

    While gallivanting around town, protestors for free trade were making their position known around town with peaceful demonstrations.  We saw many people in town who supported the free trade, however, there were many people in the agricultural community of Costa Rica were opposed to it.

10 04 07 Protest Free Trade Si Group 006.jpg (92044 bytes)

    We loved our trip to Costa Rica.  It's a beautiful and friendly country with so many attractions boredom would be hard to find.  Our friends spent four days traveling around Costa Rica and said they wished they had more time.  We spent ten days and also wished we had more time ... maybe we'll return.

      If you wish to continue the adventure, take a look at What's Happening to get the latest scoop.  Don't forget ... keep coming back. 

 

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